Hot/Cold Weather Adjustments
Reviewed by a working tradesman with 17+ years in the field.
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Weather decides more about a pour than almost anything else. Plan for heat, cold, wind and rain before the truck is ordered.
Tap your level and the boxes below open to the advice for you. Remembered on this device.
By the end you can
- State the NBC cold-weather rule and what it protects.
- Plan hot-weather placement to avoid fast drying and cracks.
- Protect a pour from rain and wind.
- Name the days you should not pour.
Fuel heaters in enclosed spaces make carbon monoxide, which can kill. Use vented or indirect heaters, keep fresh air coming in, and run a carbon monoxide alarm. Heat and cold both wear a crew down, so plan breaks, water and warm-up time. Wet concrete burns skin in any weather.
The big idea
Weather decides more about a pour than almost anything else. Heat speeds the set and dries the surface. Cold slows the set and can freeze the concrete before it has any strength. Wind and rain make both worse. Plan for the weather before the truck is ordered.
Cold weather
Plastic concrete freezes at about -4°C (25°F), and an early freeze can cost it more than half its potential strength. A US guide (CIP 27) says to protect it from freezing until it reaches 3.5 MPa (500 psi), which for concrete kept at 10°C takes about two days. For concrete that will see freeze-thaw, it says protect until 24 MPa (3,500 psi).
- The code rule. Below 5°C (41°F) air, keep the concrete between 10°C and 25°C (50 to 77°F) while mixed and placed, and at 10°C or warmer for 72 hours after placing. No frozen material or ice goes in the mix (NBC 9.3.1.9). An Ontario city information sheet cites the same Ontario Building Code article.
- Order heated concrete. The plant may heat the water or aggregate. Use admixtures only if the supplier and engineer approve them, and no chloride or antifreeze product without approval.
- Thaw the ground and forms. Remove snow, ice and frost, and do not place against ice or frost.
- Cover right after finishing with insulated blankets, and use heated enclosures where needed. Corners and edges lose heat fastest.
- Measure the concrete, not just the air.
- Keep the slump low. Do not start finishing while it is still bleeding.
- Do not strip forms or load the concrete until it has the strength the engineer requires. It gains strength slowly in the cold.
Example. Concrete placed at 2 p.m. on a Friday, with the air at 3°C (37°F), must stay at 10°C (50°F) or warmer until 2 p.m. on Monday. The date is made up.
Do not use unvented gas or propane heaters in enclosed spaces. They make carbon monoxide, which can kill, and CIP 27 says fuel heaters in enclosures should be vented, partly to prevent carbonation that causes dusting. Use vented or indirect heaters, and never leave one running in a closed space without ventilation.
Your province adopts its own edition of the code, and may add a written cold-weather plan or inspector approval. The By province section below says what I have and have not checked. For engineered work, the engineer sets the limits.
Hot weather
Heat speeds the set, dries the surface, and can cause plastic shrinkage cracks and cold joints. Part 9 gives no separate hot-weather limits. CSA A23.1 does, but I did not read it, so confirm the maximum concrete temperature with your supplier.
- Watch evaporation. A concrete-admixture maker says plastic shrinkage cracking becomes a strong possibility above 1.0 kg/m²/h (0.2 lb/ft²/h), and that controls should be considered above about 0.5 kg/m²/h (0.1 lb/ft²/h). Lower humidity, hotter concrete or air, and more wind all raise it.
- Pour early in the morning or in the evening, and shorten the delivery interval. Ask about retarders.
- Shade and dampen the forms and base, without leaving standing water.
- Have extra crew and be ready to finish fast.
- Use an evaporation retarder or fogging above the surface, if it dries too fast. Do not trowel water into the surface.
- Start curing at once, with compound, wet cover, or both.
Example. At 1.0 kg/m²/h, a 4 m by 6 m (13 ft 1 in by 19 ft 8 in) slab loses 24 m² × 1.0 = 24 kg, about 24 litres (6.3 US gal), of water from its surface every hour. The slab size is made up.
Rain and wind
- Rain: cover the slab quickly and stop finishing. Do not let rain hit a fresh finish. Pump off standing water before you continue. Never add water to fix rain damage.
- Wind: use windbreaks where you can. Bleed water disappears quickly, so work fast, and avoid early troweling that seals a dry crust. Use an evaporation retarder, and start curing at once.
- Hot and windy: the worst finishing conditions. Expect fast drying, crusting and tearing, and add crew, shade and windbreaks.
- Cold and windy: wind strips heat from the concrete and slows strength gain. Put blankets on sooner and leave them on longer.
When not to pour
- Heavy rain or thunderstorms.
- Freezing conditions with no protection plan.
- Frozen ground, or forms covered in frost.
- Very high wind with no windbreak.
- A heat wave with no shade, no extra crew and no retarder.
Common mistakes
- Finishing too early in hot or windy weather
- Placing on frozen ground
- Letting rain hit a fresh surface
- No blankets in the cold
- Ignoring fast evaporation
- Wrong admixtures
Weather decides the plan. Hot weather needs speed, cold weather needs protection, and rain and wind need cover.
Check the temperature, wind, humidity and forecast before every pour. Weather changes quickly, so keep blankets, covers and a plan in the truck.
Cold-weather placement may need the inspector's written approval, and they may check curing protection and temperature records.
What does NBC 9.3.1.9 require when the air temperature is below 5°C (41°F)?
You place concrete at 2 p.m. on Friday in a 3°C cold snap. When can the 72-hour protection end at the earliest?
Why measure the temperature of the concrete, not just the air?
At the evaporation rate that makes plastic shrinkage cracking a strong possibility, how much water does a 4 m by 6 m (13 ft 1 in by 19 ft 8 in) slab lose in an hour?
Rain starts on a fresh finish. What do you do?
Why not use an unvented propane heater inside a closed enclosure over fresh concrete?
- Must-haveMeasuring and monitoring (thermometers):
- Nice to haveMeasuring and monitoring (meter):
- Must-haveCold protection (blankets and sheeting):
- Rent itCold protection (thaw blankets): ground-thaw blankets for frozen subgrade
- Rent itHeat: vented or indirect heaters only, with a carbon monoxide alarm in any enclosed space
- Must-haveHot and windy protection:
- Must-haveCuring:
- Must-haveFinishing support: extra screeds, floats and kneeboards, so the crew can finish fast when it is hot or windy
- Must-havePPE:
Home DIY
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NBC 2020 Part 9, Article 9.3.1.9 is the cold-weather rule, and I read it as printed in the Vancouver Building Bylaw 2014. An Ontario city information sheet quotes the same wording as Ontario Building Code 9.3.1.9. I did not check the other provinces, which adopt the code with changes, so confirm the current edition for yours with the local authority. Engineered work follows the drawings and the engineer.
See Canada by Province for the full comparison.
- Vancouver Building Bylaw 2014, Division B, Section 9.3 (9.3.1.9 cold-weather requirements; no hot-weather article in Section 9.3)
- City of Barrie, Cold Weather Concrete information sheet (Jan 2023, municipal: quotes Ontario Building Code 9.3.1.9)
- CIP 27, Cold Weather Concreting (Concrete in Practice series, US, 1998: freezing, 3.5 MPa, vented heaters, blankets)
- Euclid Chemical, Preventing rapid evaporation when the heat is on (a product maker, US: 1.0 kg/m²/h threshold)
- CSA A23.1 was not read directly, so the hot-weather concrete temperature limit is not given. Provincial editions other than the Ontario sheet were not checked. Rain and wind advice is general trade practice.
Last reviewed October 2026. General information, not engineering or legal advice.
