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Frost Protection

Written for Canada. Plans are metric, but many crews and suppliers work in feet and inches, so this site gives both: millimetres and metres, with feet and inches beside them. Codes are the National Building Code of Canada 2020 (NBC 2020) Part 9 as your province adopts it. A number marked Confirm has not been checked against every province, so check it with your own authority before you act on it.

Reviewed by a working tradesman with 17+ years in the field.

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Frost heave lifts what sits on it. Keep footings below the frost line, and keep water away from the soil.

I am a:

Tap your level and the boxes below open to the advice for you. Remembered on this device.

What it isKeeping frozen soil from lifting a footing or slab.
Your jobPut the footing at the depth your drawings give, keep the excavation from freezing, and keep water and frost-susceptible soil away from the footing.
The hard ruleNever pour or set a footing on frozen ground, and never use a frost depth from another place.
The checkFooting depth against the permit drawings, drainage at the footing, and the backfill type.

By the end you can

  • Name the three things frost heave needs.
  • Find where your frost depth comes from.
  • Say what Part 9 requires for foundation depth and for a frozen excavation.
  • Tell when a frost-protected shallow foundation needs a design.
Stop and read

Never pour concrete or set a footing on frozen ground. Frozen subgrade thaws and settles, and the footing goes with it. Part 9 requires the bottom of an excavation to be kept from freezing throughout construction (Article 9.12.1.3).

Footings below the frost line are often deep. Any hole 1.2 m (4 ft) or deeper must be sloped, shored or boxed before anyone enters, so follow the Trench Safety page and your provincial OHS regulator.

The big idea

Frost heave happens when soil freezes and expands, and the soil lifts whatever sits on it. A footing that is lifted unevenly cracks the wall above it, and a slab that heaves cracks and opens at its joints. Frost protection is about three things: footings below the frost line, water kept out of the soil, and insulation where the footing is shallow by design.

On the left, a cross-section of a foundation wall on a footing set below a dashed frost line, with frozen ground above it. On the right, three numbered panels list what frost heave needs: frost-susceptible soil, water that can reach the freezing zone, and freezing temperatures below zero. Removing any one stops the heave.
Frost line and the three causes of frost heave. The footing sits below the frost line, so frozen soil cannot lift it. Heave needs frost-susceptible soil, water and freezing temperatures, and taking away any one stops it. Not to scale. The frost depth is set locally, so no depth is drawn.

Three causes of frost heave

A conference paper from a US transportation research council says that, typically, three conditions are necessary for frost heave: freezing temperatures, frost-susceptible soil and available water. It is written about roads, but the physics is the same under a footing. That is why drainage, clean granular fill and good grading belong on a frost page.

  • Frost-susceptible soil: silt and some clays pull water up as they freeze. Coarse gravel and sand drain freely and are far less of a problem.
  • Water: grade the site so surface water runs away, keep clean free-draining fill beside the wall, put drain tile and stone at the footing, and keep roof water out of the foundation drain. See the Drain Tile, Gravel Beds and Drainage Corrections pages.
  • Cold: you cannot change the weather, but you can keep the excavation from freezing during construction, and you can use insulation where the design calls for it.

What the code says

From Part 9, Section 9.12, as printed in the Vancouver Building Bylaw 2014 (a municipal reprint, possibly older than your province's edition):

  • The bottom of excavations shall be kept from freezing throughout the entire construction period (9.12.1.3).
  • Excavations for foundations shall extend to undisturbed soil (9.12.2.1).
  • The minimum depth of foundations below finished ground level shall conform to Table 9.12.2.2 (9.12.2.2). The table sets depth by soil type, soil drainage, and whether there is a heated space. For rock it gives no limit. For clay and soils not clearly defined the readable entries show a minimum of 1.2 m (3 ft 11 in), and for some other soils the table calls for going below frost penetration. The text I read was jumbled, so I could not map every column reliably. Read the table in your own code edition.
  • Where a foundation is insulated to reduce heat flow to the soil under the footings, the depth shall be that required for foundations with no heated space (9.12.2.2).
  • Depths may be decreased where experience with local soil conditions shows that lesser depths are satisfactory (9.12.2.2), and the article exempts some small accessory buildings and some decks and platforms from the table. Check the exact conditions in your edition before relying on an exemption.

The code text I read gives no frost-depth figure. The depth of frost penetration is referred to in the table but not given there, so it comes from your building department, the geotechnical report or the drawings. Do not use a rule of thumb, or a depth from another region.

Example (numbers made up). Frost depth is measured from finished ground. If existing ground sits 0.3 m (1 ft) above finished ground and the footing bottom must be 1.5 m (4 ft 11 in) below finished ground, you dig 1.5 + 0.3 = 1.8 m (5 ft 11 in) from the existing ground. A hole that deep is a trench.

Frost-protected shallow foundations

These use insulation to keep the soil under the footing from freezing, so the footing can go shallower. Rigid foam is placed against the foundation and extends outward as a horizontal "wing". They are a designed system.

  • A US Fine Homebuilding article (Martin Holladay, 2010, updated 2023) describes them as usually thick-edge slabs wrapped in vertical and horizontal rigid foam, with excavations as shallow as 12 or 16 in. (300 or 400 mm). It says the required foam depends on the climate and lists cases where they are a poor fit: steep sites, permafrost, and termite-heavy areas where foam below grade is questionable. It covers US codes and not Canada.
  • An archived CMHC design guide for shallow frost-protected wood foundations says the method is for heated buildings and "will not adequately protect buildings which are unheated for prolonged periods". It is limited to non-permafrost regions, and the building must be completed, backfilled and heated before freezing weather. It is an older document, so treat it as background, not a current design source.
  • The thickness, wing width and protection of the foam come from the design or an engineer. Whether this method is accepted where you build is a question for your building department.
  • Protect the foam from damage and digging, keep it covered, and keep water off it. Do not change the insulation to save money.

Slabs and frost

  • Compact the granular base and keep it free draining.
  • Put insulation at slab edges where the design calls for it (see Foundation Insulation).
  • Keep water away from the slab edge.

Signs of frost heave

  • Seasonal lifting of walks or driveways.
  • Cracks in slabs or walls that open in winter.
  • Doors and windows that stick in winter.
  • Uneven or lifted ground beside the building.
  • Drain lines that freeze or back up.

Isolated footings, piers and posts can also be gripped on their sides by frozen soil. This is a known engineering concern, so ask an engineer about posts and piers rather than copying a depth.

Common mistakes

  • Using the wrong frost depth
  • Clay or silt backfill beside the wall
  • No drainage at the footing
  • Foam that is damaged or soaked
  • An unheated addition on shallow footings with no protection
  • Pouring on frozen ground
Pro note

Frost heave is a water problem as much as a cold problem. Control the water and the soil, and the cold has far less to push on.

Weather note

Frost heave follows freeze-thaw cycles. A wet autumn followed by a hard freeze is the worst combination. Do not pour or backfill against frozen ground, and cover the subgrade before a freeze.

What the inspector looks at

Footing depth against the local frost depth, the drainage at the footing, the backfill type, and any frost-protected foundation details. Confirm what your building department checks.

✅ Check yourselfTap a question
What three things does frost heave need?
Frost-susceptible soil (silt and some clay), water that can reach the freezing zone, and freezing temperatures. Take away any one, usually the water or the soil, and the heave stops.
Where does the frost depth for your lot come from?
Your building department, the geotechnical report or the permit drawings. It varies a lot across Canada, so never copy a number from another region or use a rule of thumb.
What does Part 9 say about the bottom of an excavation in winter?
It shall be kept from freezing throughout the entire construction period (Article 9.12.1.3, as printed in a BC municipal reprint). Check your provincial edition.
Existing ground is 0.3 m (1 ft) above finished ground, and the footing bottom must be 1.5 m (4 ft 11 in) below finished ground. How deep do you dig?
1.5 + 0.3 = 1.8 m (5 ft 11 in) from the existing ground. The numbers are made up, and a hole that deep is a trench: sloped, shored or boxed.
Why can an unheated garage still heave when a heated house on the same soil does not?
A heated building warms the soil near its footings, while an unheated one lets frost reach right under them. Part 9 gives different minimum depths for foundations with and without a heated space.
A frost-protected shallow foundation design calls for 2 in. foam. Can you swap in 1 in. to save money?
No. The insulation thickness, wing width and protection come from the design. Follow it exactly.
🧰 Gear for this stepMust-haveRent itNice to have
  • Must-haveLayout and depth:
  • Rent itExcavating (machine): an excavator with a smooth bucket
  • Must-haveExcavating (hand tools):
  • Must-haveDrainage: drain tile, clean drain rock and filter fabric to keep water away from the footing
  • Must-haveInsulation (for a designed system):
  • Must-haveWinter protection: tarps, straw or insulated blankets to keep frost out of the subgrade before a pour
  • Must-haveChecking:
  • Must-havePPE:
  • Must-haveRespirator: a respirator (CSA Z94.4) where cutting foam makes dust or fumes
👷 Who can do thisTap your level
Home DIY
A capable owner can control surface water, grade the site and keep clean granular beside the wall. Do not pick the footing depth yourself, and do not build a frost-protected shallow foundation without a design. Ask the building department or an engineer for the local frost depth and whether the soil changes the footing depth. Any footing hole 1.2 m (4 ft) or deeper is a trench, so follow Trench Safety.
Laborer or helper
Clear snow and ice off the work area and help with surface drainage as directed. Never pour or set a footing on frozen ground. Tell the lead if the ground at a footing looks frozen or heaved.
1st-year apprentice
Help check footing depth and place drainage under supervision. Learn where the local frost depth comes from, and why frozen ground is never poured on.
Apprentice, 2nd to 4th year
Check footing depth against the drawings and place drainage under direction. Ask before pouring on any ground that might be frozen. Never stand in an unprotected footing trench 1.2 m (4 ft) or deeper.
Journeyperson
You own the check of footing depth against the permit drawings and the local frost depth, and you flag a footing that is too shallow. Stop-work triggers: the ground is frozen, the footing bottom is shallower than the drawings, or the soil is not what the drawings assume. Then stop and call the engineer.
Lead hand or foreman
Compare the footing depth with the permit drawings and the local frost depth source before each pour. Stop the pour if the ground is frozen. Call the engineer when the soil looks frost-susceptible or different from the drawings.
Contractor or business owner
Price winter protection and extra excavation depth as separate lines. Document the footing depth, where the frost depth came from, and the inspection. Keep the design and inspection records. Ask your lawyer or insurer who carries the cost of a frost-heave failure.
Starting a new business
Before you quote cold-weather work, ask the building department for the frost depth and its source. Price winter protection and extra digging separately. Ask your insurer who carries the risk of frost heave, and keep the inspection record.
By Province:

The national baseline is Part 9, Section 9.12 and Table 9.12.2.2, and each province adopts its own edition. The frost depth itself is set locally and varies a great deal, so ask your building department which number applies to your lot and where it comes from. I dropped the old list of depths by city and province because I could not verify it, and a wrong depth is a costly mistake.

Permafrost regions need an engineered foundation design. Confirm the requirements with the local authority. See Canada by Province for the full comparison.

Sources:

Last reviewed October 2026. General information, not engineering or legal advice.

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