Dimple Board
Reviewed by a working tradesman with 17+ years in the field.
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Dimple board leaves an air gap along the wall and leads water down to the drain. It does not replace the drain.
Tap your level and the boxes below open to the advice for you. Remembered on this device.
By the end you can
- Say which way the dimples face for a mat and for a drainage board.
- Fix and terminate a mat at the top and bottom.
- Keep soil out of the dimples during backfill.
- Say what a mat does and does not do.
You are working beside a tall wall in a deep excavation. Treat any excavation 1.2 m (4 ft) or deeper as a trench, and follow the Trench Safety page and your provincial OHS regulator. Do not work beside a cracked or leaning wall. Drilling concrete makes silica dust, so wet drill or use dust extraction and wear a fit-tested respirator.
The big idea
Dimple board, or drainage mat, is a plastic sheet with raised dimples. It protects the wall coating from backfill and leaves an air gap along the wall where water can run down to the drain. It is a common and useful part of a drainage system. It is not a replacement for the drain pipe at the bottom.
Which way do the dimples face?
It depends on the product, so follow the maker.
- Dimple mat (an air-gap membrane): the dimples face the wall, which makes the air gap, and the smooth side faces the soil.
- Drainage board (used to protect a waterproofing layer): the dimples face out, covered by a filter fabric.
A building-science article says a dimple mat is not considered waterproofing on its own, because it is not sealed at the bottom of the wall. A national evaluation (CCMC 12658-R) of one dimpled product accepts it as dampproofing for cast-in-place and concrete block foundation walls, as an alternative to the materials in 9.13.2.2, for walls up to 3.7 m (12 ft 2 in) below grade. That is the evaluation of one product against NBC 2015, so check the evaluation for yours.
A mat is not required in every Part 9 design. It is a common method, and some designers and inspectors expect it. Ask yours.
What it does
- Protects the membrane or coating from backfill, rocks and soil movement.
- Creates a drainage gap along the wall. A maker says the gap lets water behind the membrane flow down to the footing drain and breaks the capillary path between wet soil and the wall.
- It does not stop water under pressure on its own. Where hydrostatic pressure is expected, get a designed waterproofing system.
Characteristics: a high-density polyethylene sheet, with the dimples about 8 mm (5/16 in) high on the product in the CCMC report. Some have filter fabric, and some are plain.
Preparation
- The dampproofing or waterproofing is cured and has been inspected.
- Check for tears or missed areas before you cover them.
- Clear the wall of anything that could puncture the board.
Installation
- Start at the footing The CCMC evaluation says to cover the wall from the top of the footing to final grade. Work up from the footing.
- Face the dimples correctly Put the dimples the way the maker says: toward the wall for a dimple mat.
- Fix it Fasten it with the maker's fasteners or adhesive. Do not fasten within the maker's distance of corners, and use the maker's spacing, because wrong spacing can let dirt into the dimple space.
- Terminate the top Fasten and seal the top edge and the vertical joints so soil cannot get behind the board.
- Lap the seams Lap seams as the maker specifies and keep the board tight to the wall.
- Open the bottom Leave the bottom able to drain into the gravel around the pipe. Do not let soil, mortar, foam or debris block the gap.
If the mat will sit exposed before backfill, check the maker's UV limit. The CCMC evaluation of one product says to protect it from UV light within 30 days.
Example. A house has a 36 m (118 ft) perimeter and 2.4 m (7 ft 10 in) of wall below grade, so 36 × 2.4 = 86.4 m² (930 ft²). One maker's rolls are 20 m long and up to 3.0 m wide (65 ft 7 in by 9 ft 10 in). The wall needs 36 ÷ 20 = 1.8, so 2 rolls, before laps and waste. The house is made up.
Backfill
- Use free-draining granular backfill against the wall.
- Keep large rocks and debris away from the board.
- Backfill in lifts and watch the board as you go.
- Heavy compaction against the wall is a separate risk. The Backfilling section covers it.
Common mistakes
- Dimples facing the wrong way for the product
- No top termination
- Gaps that let soil in
- Puncturing the board during backfill
- No overlap at seams
- Stopping short of the footing
The mat is only as good as its drain. Check that water leaving the bottom has somewhere to go.
Cold stiffens the board and makes seams hard to seal. Heat softens it and it expands. Rain can leave water trapped behind it if the wall is not drained.
Termination at the top, seam laps, the bottom connection to the drain, and the backfill.
A house has a 36 m (118 ft) perimeter and 2.4 m (7 ft 10 in) of wall below grade. Using 20 m by 3.0 m (65 ft 7 in by 9 ft 10 in) rolls, how many rolls before laps?
Does the mat replace the drain pipe?
Which way do the dimples face on a dimple mat?
How high must the membrane go, and where does it start?
What must you do at the top edge?
A mat is left uncovered on a sunny wall for two months. Any issue?
- Must-haveLayout and measuring:
- Must-haveCutting:
- Must-haveFixing: termination bar, masonry fasteners with a hammer drill or the maker's adhesive fasteners, and sealant for the top edge
- Must-haveSeams:
- Must-haveRecords: a phone or camera for photos of the board and bottom connection before backfill
- Must-havePPE: hard hat (CSA Z94.1), eye protection (CSA Z94.3), green-triangle boots (CSA Z195), cut-resistant work gloves, and a fit-tested respirator (CSA Z94.4) with dust extraction or wet drilling when drilling concrete
Home DIY
Laborer or helper
1st-year apprentice
Apprentice, 2nd to 4th year
Journeyperson
Lead hand or foreman
Contractor or business owner
Starting a new business
The technique is the same across Canada. What changes is the code edition, whether your inspector expects a mat, and the inspection stage. The one product evaluation I read (CCMC 12658-R) also carries an Ontario ruling, which applies to Ontario only. I did not check the other provinces, so confirm with your local building department.
See Canada by Province for the full comparison.
- CCMC Evaluation Report 12658-R, DELTA-MS (a National Research Council evaluation of one product against NBC 2015: top of footing to grade, fastened and sealed top, 3.7 m depth, 30 days UV)
- Dörken Delta Academy, Building a dry basement (a maker's blog, so its claims about its own product are not independent: air gap, drainage to the footing drain)
- Fine Homebuilding, Dampproofing and Waterproofing for Foundation Walls (2021, secondary, US: dimple mat versus drainage board, not sealed at the bottom)
- Lap widths, fastener spacing and dimple orientation for your product come from the maker's instructions, which I did not read. Arithmetic is calculated and re-checked.
Last reviewed October 2026. General information, not engineering or legal advice.
